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MANUKAU MODEL POWER BOAT CLUB Inc

 

Web Sites:

HTTP://www.voyager.co.nz/~gasayers

HTTP://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~cbreen/mmpbc/frames.html

Venue: Wattle Farm Rd Pond Manurewa

2nd & 4th Sunday of each month

 

Secretary:        Glen Sayers                 Editor   Chris Breen

                        9 Reyland Close                       86 Chivalry Rd

                        Manurewa                               Glenfield

                        Ph 267 2607                              Ph 4445 482                                          June 2001

 

HOT NEWS

SPEED RUNS

Speed runs at Lake Hakanoa, (Huntly) still planned shortly, but no further news at present.

Regional Handicap Series

The second round of the Regional handicap series on Sunday 10 th June dawned clear and sunny (well on the North Shore anyway) Our four colleagues from Hamilton were making their way north while your editor, Merv, Adrian, Terry, Malcolm, Peter, Tony and one or two others descended upon the pond. Then, unfortunately, the heavens opened. A solid wall of water with a few slots cut in it – you get the idea? But our DEDICATED club members of course who are not deterred by mere rain, wind, sleet, snow, thunder, lightning, tornados etc prepared to race the visitors… Plastic bags to cover transmitters, tent & Gazebo to keep off the rain, wet-weather gear, boots, umbrellas etc…(Sorry no photos but the weather was rather inclement)

Racing was organised in two groups of three or four boats and several rapid rounds of racing were completed to excellent effect. The standard of driving were excellent with no serious incidents and sensible withdrawals when trouble did manifest itself.

The handicap system worked extremely well. In one group we had Malcolm’s ‘65 Skulduggery, Tony Belle’s ‘60 sprint cat, Chris’ Sport ‘40 Hydro, and Nigel’s (loud) 20 mono from Hamilton. The other group included Adrian’s Orange thingi (Zenoa), and Peter Wright’s ‘45 Sprint cat, plus from Hamilton, Greg Clarkson’s multi mono, and Jeff’s large, evil looking, stick hydro

Your editor must complain about totally unfair behaviour from his main nemesis (Malcolm) who’s boat “Skulduggery”, after 2 laps, seems to carve the most enormous holes in the water, very efficiently trapping a certain Chinese Sport 45 hydro trying desperately to pass him. Result : two (at least) 360 degree spins, and one flip upside down. (That Chinese motor seems very tolerant of spins and dunkings). What with Malcolm and at other times typhoon strength winds and choppy water the poor hydro faced an up-hill battle.

NEXT ROUND IS HAMILTON ON 22 July 2001 from around 8.30 am

National Points to Date: (2) = score after two regattas

Mark Graham              1646.19           Tony Rutledge             1596.26           Neil Plumpton              1531.67

Michael Binns              1451.32           Graeme Merry             1445.47           Jason Lester               1439.92

Wayne Lester                         1437.89           Malcolm Miller(2)         2910.61           Greg Clarkson(2)        3014.98

Peter Collier                1305.44           Grant Binns                 1253.33           Chris Breen(2)                        2428.21

Don Ward                   1218.32           Jeff Weake(2)             1690.97           Nigel Bunn(2)              2582.73

Graeme                       724.64             Daryl Christiansen      621.34             John Belworthy           303.31

Tony Belle                   1424.53           Adrian Melanesi           1230.50           Peter Wright                576.77

TECH NOTES

(Various sources)

Break in your Glow Plugs:

The idea is to temper the tiny coil by heat and cooling 4 times. Take new glow plugs and ignite them with your glow starter for 10 seconds and then let cool. They'll last a lot longer and save you money.(Editor’s note … Sounds interesting, anyone had any experience??)

Radio Check 1:

Before you leave the house, turn on the boat and radio to confirm everything is charged and working properly. This will save you the drive to the lake if things don't work! Be sure to turn it all back OFF. (This way you know you have a radio in your boat) (Editor’s note … Yeah, Yeah, OK, ha ha ha…before you get out of bed check you are not still asleep)

Radio Check 2:

Once at the lake, always check your frequency before you start your boat! Check the following:

1)      No-one else is using your frequency – check the peg board.

2)      rudder and throttle both move the correct way (ie left turn is a turn left and not a right turn)

3)      Collapse antenna and move 9 m away. If signal is lost raise antenna very slightly (30 to 50 mm maximum) and try again. Some NZ sets are border-line at 9 m with fully retracted antenna.. If in doubt pace out a good 100 m and test with antenna fully extended. NOTE The strongest signal radiates at about 30 to 45 degrees from the antenna axis, so keep this fact in mind if you loose you signal while the boat is moving.

Boat Recovery when there is no dingy:

Here is the best way to recover a stuck boat. Run a piece of stout line through a tennis ball and tie a loop about 600 mm long. Tie to a swivel and thence to an ordinary fishing rod and reel. To recover, cast the ball out and well over the stalled boat. Works best if a suitable fitting is fixed to the boat prow or cowl or somewhere similar that will trap the line as it is pulled back.

FLEX Shaft shortening & alignment

Flex shafts shorten slightly when under load. This is no problem with a sliding square drive nut at the motor, but for when using a flex-hex lock nut at the motor you must leave a gap between the prop dog and the strut to avoid binding under load. 3 to 4 mm gap is needed

RUMOUR Department

Rumour hath it, and from reliable industry sources, that a ‘glass round-nose hydroplane will soon be seen at the pond…Is this true???? Who might be the mysterious owner/driver???? Only time will tell.

Home-Made Hardware (by Your Editor)

Readers looking to get into the hobby may well be deterred by the cost and scarcity of parts at the usual model shops. The following might be helpful for those prepared to do a little hand metal work to get their first boat in the water

Cooling Aero motors

Aero motors are generally much cheaper than marine motors but many can be modified for sport marine use. I have run an OS20 FP aero motor ($135 new) for years in Antares and it just keeps going and going and going and will shift the small mono at about 60 km/hr. Any motor with CIRCULAR cooling fins can be converted this way. I have converted a 20 and a 40.

Measure the outside diam of the cooling fins and buy two rubber O-rings (from Para, probably about 15 c) that are a very snug fit. Fit one between the two fins immediately above the exhaust. Measure the new outside diameter and purchase a length of aluminium or brass or copper tubing that is a tight fit over the ring. ($10 should buy you a 1m length or so) Cut a short length (say 20 or 25 mm) and fit two pressure fittings or solder on two short lengths of tube to create an inlet and outlet. Carefully slip into place (use some oil) without displacing the O-Ring. Finally force the second O-Ring into the gap between the head and the tube and presto! Water cooling and no machining required!

Drive tubes, Teflon liners & Struts

The commonest drive shaft uses 3/16 inch flex cable, running in a Teflon tube, inside a brass stuffing tube. There is little alternative to buying the flex cable but the tube and strut can be easily fabricated from brass sections. CAUTION only ever braze joints (eg EziFlow) on running hardware, never rely on common solder except for the very smallest set-ups (electric and maybe 10 sized glow)..

For the drive tube and strut tube buy some 11/32” OD brass tube. Thick walled Teflon tube that is a snug fit in the tube AND is 3/16 ID can be sourced from LUDOWICI CEELON in Henderson Pl Onehunga. Though pricey this is excellent stuff, I use this drive tube arrangement in all my boats and VERY VERY rarely break a flex shaft. The Teflon is even stiff enough to eliminate the brass stuffing tube if you are brave. (see Antares photo – NO brass tube) A short length of the Teflon makes a very effective bearing in the strut as well, although you will need to make up some sort of thrust bearing if using a sliding square drive at the motor.

Rudders

I have made rudders by brazing brass blades to stainless 3/16 shaft material but I must warn that I have also lost several such blades at inconvenient times (funny…the boat just stops steering). A solid brass shaft will braze very well but may be prone to bend in larger boats.

Exhaust Headers

Go to Mitre 10 and look through the copper plumbing bins. You will find an array of 12 mm, and larger, bends, T’ s, elbows, reducers couplings etc etc which with some brass plate and careful brazing can make any style of header you care to name. The 180 degree header shown cost me $8.50, yes $8.50

And yes, I KNOW the crank case is reversed, but otherwise the pipe will be far too short or will poke out the back. (Think laterally you guys)

DICK-OF-THE-DAY

From the second round of the Handicap Series, DOTD must go to Peter Wright who had a frustrating day. First he launches his boat only to find it goes left when he steers right (See above!!). Then he is forced to retire from two races when his steering appears to fail totally, Then realises he has tried to fit Futaba servo horns to a competing brand. Problem easily fixed when you know….All this and raining as well. (Editors note: At least Pete turned up in spite of having just moved house…Others conspicuous by their absence… rhubarb, rhubarb)

Points Standings

Driver

Boat

Points before Last Race day

Total Points after last race day (13/05/01)

 

Class I Off-S

   

Graham Doggett

Ohio Steel

147

147

Peter Wright

Obsession

56

56

Adrian Milanesi

Orange thingi

89

136

Glen Sayers

Blue thingi

31

31

Wayne Lester

Bud Dry

27

27

Jason Lester

Coca Cola

81

81

Tony Belle

Blue & White sprint

25

25

Malcolm Miller

Skulduggery

77

125

Brian Nesbitt

Pussycat

59

76

 

Class II Off-S

   

Glen Sayers

Steves Model shop

26

26

Jason Lester

DeWalt

 

46

Malcolm Miller

Red Boat

 

49

 

Hydros

   

Chris Breen

Black Fire

 

40

Jason Lester

DeWalt

 

28

       

Videos for Sale Contact Merv on 360 8601 for your orders. $15 each

1981 Gold Cup Seattle & Seafair Trophy   Duration 180 mins

Lots of Spills and Thrills.

Note: This Video was recorded originally in Long Play and in the American format. The quality is lost a bit in the transfer to the NZ format but is still very watch-able and very Historical.

Hydro Wipe-outs

A selection of spills. Well worth watching

Also we have one copy of “How to Build a Scale Unlimited Hydro.”

May be borrowed or Merv might make you a copy– (Editor’s Note: very comprehensive guide and personally recommended)

Some Good Web Addresses

http://www.intlwaters.com/

NZMPBA          http://www.angelfire.com/rnb/nzmpba/ ( RNB not MB)

Canterbury      http://www.angelfire.com/mb/powerboats/

RC Models      http://www.rcmodels.co.nz good local & international message boards

Auction site     http://www.trademe.co.nz/   -> sport & hobbies -> Radio Control

http://listings.ebay.com/aw/listings/list/all/category2564/index.html Boats 4 Sale

http://www.cmdracing.com/ MAC Motors...The BEST!!!

https://www.naturecoast.com/hobby/uni.htm Lathes

http://www.scalehydros.com/ 1/8th Scale

http://rcboat.com/This one has an excellent discussion group...as well good Tech Bits

Well that is all for this newsletter people – Go fast , turn right, keep the wet side down.

C Breen – Editor

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